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Americans are eating less meat. And more meat. How?

Meat in the deli section
The average American’s meat consumption is among the highest in the world. | Jeffrey Greenberg/Education Images/Universal Images Group via Getty Images

In recent decades, the average American has steadily increased their consumption of meat, milk, and eggs, to a staggering 224 pounds of red meat and poultry, 280 eggs, 20.5 pounds of fish, and 667 pounds of dairy per year — among the highest rates in the world. The dominance of animal products on Americans’ plates has had grave consequences for animals, nearly all of which are factory-farmed, and has also accelerated climate change and the polluting of America’s waterways.

But these numbers are just population-wide averages — they don’t tell us much about the diverse range of dietary habits among 335 million Americans, nor about how many people swear off meat and other animal products altogether. 

Understanding rates of vegetarianism and veganism, in particular, is tricky because people aren’t always reliable narrators of their own diets. Somewhere between 2 to 6 percent of Americans surveyed say they’re vegetarian, but many of these same people also report they’ve recently consumed meat

This story was first featured in the Processing Meat newsletter

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Surveys on vegetarianism and meat consumption are “notoriously unreliable,” Zach Freitas-Groff, an economist at the University of Texas at Austin, told me. 

In an attempt to understand what people are actually eating, Freitas-Groff and two fellow economists — Trevor Woolley at the University of California, Berkeley and Carl Meyer at Stanford University — reviewed people’s grocery receipts. The team analyzed tens of thousands of households’ grocery purchases from 2005 to 2020 to see how Americans’ meat consumption had changed over time. Their findings were published in June as a working paper — not yet peer-reviewed, so the results should be viewed as tentative — by the University of Chicago Booth School of Business. 

Their findings represent a growing chasm in American meat consumption: The number of households that avoid meat has increased slightly, while all other households have increased their meat purchases by an average of nearly 15 percent by weight relative to other foods. Overall grocery sales declined during this period, as Americans ate more of their meals outside the home, but as a share of groceries, meat purchases increased significantly. 

From 2005 to 2020, the share of households that didn’t purchase any meat at the grocery store increased from 4.1 to 4.6 percent — a 12 percent jump. The share of households purchasing no animal products — meat, milk, or eggs — doubled, from a tiny 0.5 percent to a still-tiny 1 percent.

“The increase in meat avoiders is promising, but over 15 years, the increase appears very modest,” Joshua Tasoff, an economics professor at Claremont Graduate University who was not involved in the study, told Vox in an email.

The authors are hesitant to make sweeping generalizations about the state of American meat consumption based on these findings. The study only looked at food purchased at the grocery store, they note, which accounts for about two-thirds of caloric intake, while the other third is eaten at restaurants and schools, which was not included in the study. The data also excludes meat sold at grocery store deli counters, including both raw meat and meat in prepared deli dishes. 

But the paper provides a more granular view into consumers’ relationship with meat than we’ve had before, dovetailing with other recent research findings, like a 2023 study showing that just 12 percent of Americans — mostly men and older people — eat 50 percent of the nation’s beef. 

Tasoff called the study an “impressive paper” that uses the best available data for consumer analysis.

The study’s time period, from 2005 to 2020, coincides with a growth in news coverage of farm animal welfare — a time in which numerous animal rights groups grew from tiny grassroots organizations into well-oiled machines; undercover investigations into factory farms gained national attention; around a dozen states passed farm animal welfare laws; cultural icons like Beyoncé and Billie Eilish promoted the benefits of plant-based eating; and plant-based meat and milk, made by companies such as Beyond Meat, Impossible Foods, and Oatly, went mainstream

But can increased media attention on factory farming — resulting from a growth in animal rights activism — and better vegetarian products explain the shift away from meat among a small but increasing share of American households? That might be part of it, the researchers concluded, but most of the shift, they found, can be attributed to other factors, including rising meat prices. 

Digging into the data on America’s shifting meat consumption

Around two-thirds of the increase in meat avoidance, the researchers estimate, is attributable to higher meat prices and to people buying less food at grocery stores and more at restaurants and elsewhere.  

The remaining third? Some of it could stem from older generations dying and younger people becoming heads of households. According to the paper, households in which the head was born after 1980 are 50 percent more likely to avoid meat and around twice as likely not to buy any animal products compared to other households. 

In 2004, these households made up just 1 percent of the sample; by 2020, they accounted for 15 percent. If this trend holds, it could lead to a continued increase in households abstaining from meat in the decades to come, representing a bright spot in the paper’s otherwise discouraging findings. (Younger generations also tend to report higher rates of vegetarianism, flexitarianism, pescetarianism, and veganism in surveys.) 

The difference among age groups is even more stark when looking at rates of all animal product avoidance. About 2.5 percent of households whose heads were born after 1990 didn’t purchase any animal products; for other age groups, the share hovers around 0.5 to 1 percent.

Though the study didn’t attempt to explain why younger people are avoiding animal products at such higher rates, it’s not unreasonable to think that animal advocacy — often directed at younger generations — could be changing social mores. That said, younger consumers have less money, so they could be more sensitive to rising meat prices, and they’re also more likely to eat away from home

The researchers also looked at whether the growth in media coverage of factory farming played a role in meat avoidance. 

It “depends on the model we use,” Woolley wrote in an email. “Taken all together, it looks like media coverage probably played a role, but it’s hard to determine the magnitude of the effect given that it isn’t consistently statistically significant (unlike the effect of prices and total grocery purchase volume). It does seem to hold some explanatory power though.” 

A 2011 study found that from 1991 to 2008, media coverage of cruelty on pig and poultry farms led to reduced demand for pork and poultry by 2.6 percent and 5 percent, respectively.

As for the role of plant-based meat alternatives, while they’ve generated a lot of buzz in the media and pop culture, and the sector’s sales have grown significantly in recent years, it’s still far too small a market to explain why more households have moved away from meat. The study found that plant-based meat products had no discernible displacement effect on animal meat sales. However, some of the most popular brands, like Beyond Meat and Impossible, didn’t become widely available in grocery stores until the final years of the data used in the paper. 

Plant-based milks like oat and soy, however, displaced cow’s milk on a nearly 1-to-1 basis.

Meat’s price isn’t right

The overall picture painted by the study is grim for factory-farmed animals and our warming planet. A small number of households have started avoiding meat at the grocery store in recent decades, but they’re overshadowed by all other households, which seem to be buying more meat. 

The findings illustrate how critical the price of meat is to consumer behavior — a reality that’s painfully obvious to economists but often neglected in advocacy focused on animal cruelty. Work to change people’s hearts and minds may only go so far; changing the sticker price consumers see at the grocery store would likely have a much greater impact. 

Despite rising food prices over the last two decades, meat and other animal products remain relatively cheap. That’s not because raising and slaughtering animals is an inexpensive endeavor, but because livestock companies have been exhaustively deregulated, which in turn has diffused their costs throughout society.

Farmed animals pay the cost with their suffering, as do wild animals in the form of mass deforestation and polluted rivers. Many farmers pay the cost by taking on a mountain of debt, while slaughterhouse workers pay the cost in lost fingers and limbs. Ultimately, all of us pay it in the form of climate change and increasingly ineffective antibiotics.

If livestock producers were to internalize these costs — and if we were to do away with much of the subsidies doled out to industry — meat would cost a lot more, causing some consumers to reduce or eliminate their meat purchasing. 

According to True Price, a Dutch nonprofit that estimates the environmental cost of food, internalizing the environmental harms alone (excluding costs like animal cruelty and public health) of certain animal products would increase their price between two- and five-fold:

  • Beef increases from $5.34 to $27.36 per pound
  • Cheese increases from $3.74 to $7.50 per pound
  • Chicken increases from $2.20 to $4.03 per pound

Advocating for raising meat prices, especially after an election in which inflation and rising grocery bills played a major role in ousting the incumbent party, feels — to put it lightly — insensitive and politically risky. But at the same time, consumers enjoy low meat prices at a steep cost to society, while polluting meat companies celebrate record profits. Some governments are reconsidering this longstanding deregulatory paradigm.

Just this week, the Danish government passed a modest tax on livestock emissions, and it’s also investing in programs to make plant-based foods, which are much more environmentally friendly than meat, more affordable. If we’re serious about ensuring planet Earth is habitable for future generations, and mitigating one of humanity’s greatest moral crimes, the rest of us will need to follow their lead.


Read full article on: vox.com
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Paul Mescal in Gladiator II. In the movie, Mescal’s Lucius bites a baboon and chokes it to death. Fact check: Though Mescal is capable of biting and choking, it is unlikely gladiators were doing so in Ancient Rome. | Paramount Pictures Welcome to Know-It-All. In the age of intellectual property grabs, docudramas, and so very many sequels, it can be difficult to find a way into the complicated worlds we see on screen. In this series, Vox experts explain what you need to know to get into the latest hot release. Human existence is full of an unfathomably infinite number of things — real and fake, abstract ideas and actual physical objects, past and present and future — to consider, fixate on, learn about. Still, for many men, there’s one thing they specifically think about constantly: the Roman Empire.  Director Ridley Scott, a man, very clearly thinks about it a lot. But maybe not in exactly the same way others do. On Friday, Scott’s new movie Gladiator II will officially hit theaters. 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Maybe one day our descendants will imagine our mundane lives with as much anachronistic gusto as Scott.  To get a better understanding of what Scott was aiming for in this movie and what he was inspired by, I chatted with Vox senior writer Christian Paz, another man who thinks about Ancient Rome often. Since middle school, Paz tells me, he was obsessed with the Roman Empire and that fixation has only grown stronger in adulthood. Paz is also slightly fascinated by Paul Mescal and, now, Ridley Scott’s off-kilter version of Ancient Rome. We talked about Roman naval battles, the egos of emperors, and what is, really, so endlessly fascinating about this period in history.  How often do you think about the Roman Empire? I think about it quite a lot. Its influence and legacy are everywhere. I see reminders of it when I walk around DC, when I scroll TikTok and get videos about the Galactic Senate, the Galactic Republic, and the Empire, and when I watch videos about what ancient and historical peoples used to cook and eat. Also I took Latin in high school. How often do you think Ridley Scott thinks about the Roman Empire? Insofar as he thinks about big battles, big historical events, and believes in the Great Man theory of history, probably often enough to want to recreate the magic of the original Gladiator. And he probably wants an Oscar, no? If his movies reflect his personal desires and needs, I believe that man wants a lot of things. And sometimes I think this world simply does not have enough to offer Ridley Scott, so he sensationalizes. It feels like he is constantly tarting up the world he lives in or learned about. For example, in Gladiator II, Paul Mescal bites a baboon in one of the arenas. 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God, this Colosseum scene was actually ridiculous because, where are they finding these sharks? How would they catch them and transport them back to Rome?  Modern-day aquariums have a tough time keeping sharks alive. But Ridley Scott believes Ancient Rome could.  Sharks can’t really survive in freshwater, so where are they holding these massive amounts of salt water and tanks and sharks? Flooding the Colosseum with water was actually a thing that was done a few times earlier in the Roman imperial period — but that was fresh water transported through aqueducts and diverted from the Tiber River. On every level, that’s actually an insane decision to make. But mock naval battles were once actually fought in the Colosseum, or in bigger locations around Rome, as early as Julius Caesar’s reign toward the end of the Republic. They were a hugely extravagant and expensive thing to do, so they didn’t happen too frequently. Even gladiatorial games were an irregular occurrence — happening like three to four times a year at most — because they were just so expensive to hold. And that’s the bottom line of why they went out of commission. It was just too expensive to run an empire, and to keep these circuses going contributed to the empire’s resource drain — and the gradual spread of Christianity finished the games off. How do they get the sharks in and out?  Movie magic. There’s also one gladiator who rides a trained rhino. I’m guessing that’s a bit of embellishment too.  Yup, another wild decision — made for great cinema action, but it’s not likely that Romans would train and ride a rhino into battle. There are records of rhinoceroses being brought into the Colosseum — like during the celebrations for when it was inaugurated and when the emperor Commodus, the inspiration for Joaquin Phoenix’s villain from the first Gladiator, killed a rhinoceros with spears and arrows from an elevated platform in 192 AD. When used, rhinos would fight other animals instead of gladiators. Could you imagine all that effort to bring a rhino into the Colosseum, telling all your friends about it, getting the gladiators set, and then have it just run around killing a lion — a lion that may have been hanging around in the bowels of the Colosseum for ages because everyone was out trying to find a rhino? So then the rhino waits for another crew to find a hippo or something and the cycle repeats itself!  God, I’d hate to be a rhino and just be killed because of ego.  But the whole point of having rhinos and other exotic animals in the Colosseum was to represent and demonstrate the power, wealth, and reach of the empire, and more specifically, of the emperor.  Another surprising thing: the Roman newspaper that one of the senators is reading.  This was one of the more ridiculous things in the film; it has been ridiculed extensively. It was actually in two scenes, if I recall — in the pseudo-cafe in which a senator is having a beverage (which I will assume is wine, or a spiced wine, because the Romans didn’t really have tea or coffee yet) and then at the senator’s home when Macrinus shows up. For those who need clarification: Paper, of the mass-produced variety, has not been invented yet, never mind the printing press.  Sadly, the Ancient Romans never knew the font that is Times New Roman.  Romans did have a version of, like, important announcements and news that were inscribed into a stone tablet and which was primarily placed in public places — the Acta Diurna, or “Acts of the Day.” But it wasn’t very widely circulated to people — it might have been sent to some senators but was primarily shared with governors and administrative government officials. Was the gladiator system — that wins could make you a celebrity and eventually a free man — real? Yes and no.  It was absolutely a system with schools and cells, and sponsors and teachers, and funding and people who fed you and tended to you; you were specially trained, and became a master essentially of a particular kind of weapon and armor and dress usually based on your ethnic or national origin — like Gauls, Thracians, Britons. Gladiators lost personhood and became a form of property — prisoners of war, enslaved people, people with significant debts who sought to repay those debts, and poor, lower-class people who volunteered. So the whole operation that Denzel Washington’s character is running was very real. And yes, you could essentially become a celebrity, and aristocratic women, of high society, would take them as lovers — but even if you got discharged or won your freedom after winning or surviving matches, there wasn’t much you could do in society — so they would return to teach other gladiators or fight again as free men. The real gladiator “system” feels more like an MLM than whatever’s happening in Scott’s movie. Why do you think Scott is so obsessed with it? Honestly, I was thinking that too. When you’re in, you’re kind of stuck. You get nice perks on occasion but it was a nasty, brutish, short life. And I think that is probably part of his fascination — to trade up freedom for something greater, or to make the most of the hellish lot life has cast you. I feel like you and Ridley Scott think about different things when thinking about the Roman Empire. What is it about the Roman Empire that fascinates you?  I think we think very differently about the Roman Empire. Scott loves the battles and the concept of great men — and don’t get me wrong, me too! My favorite games are Rome Total War and Empire Total War. In middle school I recreated a Roman camp in Gaul in my school’s cafeteria for a class project and made a set of armor like what Julius Caesar’s legionaries probably wore. Did this make you popular? Like, did you have a lot of friends? Um. First of all, that’s rude. And second of all, I didn’t go there to make friends. I came to win and put on a spectacle. But also, I was fascinated by the politics of the Roman Republic, specifically — the concept of the senate, the idea of the “Senate and the People of Rome” being the source of power and legitimacy, of consuls and of aediles and of quaestors, of a civil service. And I was fascinated by its fall, the rise of a rag-tag system of tyrannical government in the form of the empire — which, for most people, didn’t really mean anything different in their lives but changed the world. And so I think specifically of the tenuousness of democracy, the appeal of strongmen, and the fact that what binds so many nations today — representative democracy and imagined community — has its roots in Rome’s centuries of existence. 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vox.com
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